Aa
I'm going to be a regular here.
It seems that I'm going to be a regular here, picking your brains about situations myself and my 2 dogs are not use to.Sorry, This post might get lengthy. Like I said in my other post, We will be moving very soon. We have lived in a house with a very, very large fenced yard, which my dogs have had access thru a doggie door day and night. Due to back problems, I stopped walking the dogs a long time ago, but they still remember what taking up the leashes mean.
Due to the economy, financial and health reasons, my family (2 other sisters,elderly mom, & nephew) have bought a large house with a cottage and will all be living together. I will be in the adjacent, separate cottage since I have the big dogs and my sisters have the smaller dogs.
There's sure to be a lot of situations coming up that I'll be looking for advise on. But here's a few of the initial ones.
I'll be moving to the new place first, and it probably won't have a fenced yard for at least a few weeks. So I'll be needing to walk the dogs (Ugh! My aching back, lol). Should I walk them separately? Any tips on dogs that pull while walking. This was a big problem before and the reason for stopping the walking. I tried everything to get them to stop the pulling, special "no-pull" harnesses, stopping when they pull etc. Would anyone recommend those pinching collars? :(
Another situation: My dogs have never met any of my sisters dogs, but I would like them to meet and eventually all get along. Since the new place will be new to all of them, no one will have established their territory yet. It has been suggested that my sisters bring their dogs over and we take them for long walks together off the property. Sound like a good idea? Any suggestions would be great.
My sisters are afraid my dogs will eat their little dogs (Even thought one sister has some nasty little alpha dogs). We need to find a way to socialize these dogs together, even though my dogs will eventually have their own separate fenced yard. I would like them to be able to get together without any problems. Think it's possible?
Another question: When a group of dogs come together and form a pack, will a large Alpha Male usually be the head of the pack (under the humans of course)? Or can a Small Alpha female take over?
Oh, this is gonna be interesting.
Any suggestions or ideas?
We will have 7 dogs between us. OMG The neighbors are gonna hate us.
Due to the economy, financial and health reasons, my family (2 other sisters,elderly mom, & nephew) have bought a large house with a cottage and will all be living together. I will be in the adjacent, separate cottage since I have the big dogs and my sisters have the smaller dogs.
There's sure to be a lot of situations coming up that I'll be looking for advise on. But here's a few of the initial ones.
I'll be moving to the new place first, and it probably won't have a fenced yard for at least a few weeks. So I'll be needing to walk the dogs (Ugh! My aching back, lol). Should I walk them separately? Any tips on dogs that pull while walking. This was a big problem before and the reason for stopping the walking. I tried everything to get them to stop the pulling, special "no-pull" harnesses, stopping when they pull etc. Would anyone recommend those pinching collars? :(
Another situation: My dogs have never met any of my sisters dogs, but I would like them to meet and eventually all get along. Since the new place will be new to all of them, no one will have established their territory yet. It has been suggested that my sisters bring their dogs over and we take them for long walks together off the property. Sound like a good idea? Any suggestions would be great.
My sisters are afraid my dogs will eat their little dogs (Even thought one sister has some nasty little alpha dogs). We need to find a way to socialize these dogs together, even though my dogs will eventually have their own separate fenced yard. I would like them to be able to get together without any problems. Think it's possible?
Another question: When a group of dogs come together and form a pack, will a large Alpha Male usually be the head of the pack (under the humans of course)? Or can a Small Alpha female take over?
Oh, this is gonna be interesting.
Any suggestions or ideas?
We will have 7 dogs between us. OMG The neighbors are gonna hate us.
I'm so sorry! I got busy with "real life" so... I'll give a shot at the pulling problem.
Over the course of years, I tried to walk two dogs at a time and I looked likea musher. Without snow. LOL! One at a time and I could deal with them, but each dog always had to be just a bit ahead of me. That is a sign of a dog who believes he is higher than you in pack level. Dogs are all about the pack and who occupies what level of that pack. Their level tells them how they're supposed to behave. They don't care if they're at the bottom: they just want to be certain where they fit in.
My dog Chica (died last January, bless her heart) taught me more about dogs than any trainer I've ever had. Why? Because she was a "bad dog". I didn't have a clue how to deal with her until I started watching The Dog Whisperer on the National Geographic Channel. It didn't take long for me to see myself and Chica in many of the stories on the show. It also didn't take long to figure out what we'd done wrong all those years and why Chica was such a dominatrix. She saw a complete lack of leadership from me and my husband, so she naturally stepped in to fill that vacuum. Dogs will do that when there is no obvious pack leader.
After watching a few shows, I decided to take a deep breath and walk both my dogs together. This after one-too-many times of being dragged around the neighborhood. LOL! I can tell you that attitude is everything where dogsare concerned. When YOU believe you are the Leader; THEY will believe it. It's kind of a 'fake it till you make it' thing.
So how did my inaugural walk go? Superbly! I don't know who was more shocked: me or the dogs. Chica always clung in fear to my legs to where I couldn't walk without tripping (followed by lunging attacks on other dogs and people), and Maggie dragged us both down the street.
The first thing to watch is your leash length. If you have a 25 foot flex-leash; throw it away. If your dog is calm and trustworthy enough for 25 feet of lead, he doesn't need a lead. Have a picture in your mind of the ideal walk. A dog at each side of your body or even better, slightly behind, on a slightly loose leash. That's your target. Visualize yourself as the strongest person you can imagine: Cleopatra, a performer, a family member - it doesn't matter as long as you can assume an authoritative state of mind. Shorten your leash length to the point you have just enough slack to do a "pop release" correction if your dog goes ahead of you. That means you correct as soon as his snout passes your leg.
Try mastering the walk with one dog at a time. Shoot for minimum 20 minutes, and if the dog behaves for the first 5 minutes, he's allowed to CALMLY go ahead a couple of paces and mark his territory. Always begin and end the walk on your own terms.
Watch your dog's body language. A pulling dog may be very alert visually and have very erect body, ear and tail posture. That means he is not paying attention to you; which is what you want. Use his nose to begin with and silently use a treat to get his attention on your face. As soon as he looks you in the face, give him the treat and praise. A pulling dog may be ruled by his nose. These kinds of dogs practically rub their noses on the sidewalk, and still have erect ears and tails. They will not hear a thing you have to say and probably won't respond to pop-release correction. Carry on and every few minutes use the treat-face method to get his attention back to you.
A dog who trusts and recognizes his owner as a pack leader will calmly follow that owner anywhere. You have to work on yourself as well as your dog to achieve optimum communication and results. If you truly believe in the possibility of being a pack leader; it will happen as long as you work on it in everything you do with your dog. :-)
Over the course of years, I tried to walk two dogs at a time and I looked likea musher. Without snow. LOL! One at a time and I could deal with them, but each dog always had to be just a bit ahead of me. That is a sign of a dog who believes he is higher than you in pack level. Dogs are all about the pack and who occupies what level of that pack. Their level tells them how they're supposed to behave. They don't care if they're at the bottom: they just want to be certain where they fit in.
My dog Chica (died last January, bless her heart) taught me more about dogs than any trainer I've ever had. Why? Because she was a "bad dog". I didn't have a clue how to deal with her until I started watching The Dog Whisperer on the National Geographic Channel. It didn't take long for me to see myself and Chica in many of the stories on the show. It also didn't take long to figure out what we'd done wrong all those years and why Chica was such a dominatrix. She saw a complete lack of leadership from me and my husband, so she naturally stepped in to fill that vacuum. Dogs will do that when there is no obvious pack leader.
After watching a few shows, I decided to take a deep breath and walk both my dogs together. This after one-too-many times of being dragged around the neighborhood. LOL! I can tell you that attitude is everything where dogsare concerned. When YOU believe you are the Leader; THEY will believe it. It's kind of a 'fake it till you make it' thing.
So how did my inaugural walk go? Superbly! I don't know who was more shocked: me or the dogs. Chica always clung in fear to my legs to where I couldn't walk without tripping (followed by lunging attacks on other dogs and people), and Maggie dragged us both down the street.
The first thing to watch is your leash length. If you have a 25 foot flex-leash; throw it away. If your dog is calm and trustworthy enough for 25 feet of lead, he doesn't need a lead. Have a picture in your mind of the ideal walk. A dog at each side of your body or even better, slightly behind, on a slightly loose leash. That's your target. Visualize yourself as the strongest person you can imagine: Cleopatra, a performer, a family member - it doesn't matter as long as you can assume an authoritative state of mind. Shorten your leash length to the point you have just enough slack to do a "pop release" correction if your dog goes ahead of you. That means you correct as soon as his snout passes your leg.
Try mastering the walk with one dog at a time. Shoot for minimum 20 minutes, and if the dog behaves for the first 5 minutes, he's allowed to CALMLY go ahead a couple of paces and mark his territory. Always begin and end the walk on your own terms.
Watch your dog's body language. A pulling dog may be very alert visually and have very erect body, ear and tail posture. That means he is not paying attention to you; which is what you want. Use his nose to begin with and silently use a treat to get his attention on your face. As soon as he looks you in the face, give him the treat and praise. A pulling dog may be ruled by his nose. These kinds of dogs practically rub their noses on the sidewalk, and still have erect ears and tails. They will not hear a thing you have to say and probably won't respond to pop-release correction. Carry on and every few minutes use the treat-face method to get his attention back to you.
A dog who trusts and recognizes his owner as a pack leader will calmly follow that owner anywhere. You have to work on yourself as well as your dog to achieve optimum communication and results. If you truly believe in the possibility of being a pack leader; it will happen as long as you work on it in everything you do with your dog. :-)
Hi, I'm Magi's sister (the one with the little alpha dogs.) One of my big concerns with the move is .......the dogs will have been uprooted from their homes. Everything is going to be new to them, and I'm sure this alone will make them nervous. Now add 5 other dogs to the mix. I'm terrified !
So, here's another question. We will be fencing between Magi's cottage and the main house. Should this fence that will separate the dogs be chain link so the dogs can see one another ? Or should we put up privacy fence ?
I think it should be privacy. My little rat terrier is going to want to get at Magi's rotty. She is fearless and I picture hours of them going at each other through the chainlink.
Magi wants the chain link. She feels it will help them get acquainted.
(Magi's dogs will never be allowed off leash with my dogs ever) Too many times things can go bad in a spit second. So which fence do we use ?????????
You guys are going to get sick of us and our questions. lol Thanks in advance. Mary
So, here's another question. We will be fencing between Magi's cottage and the main house. Should this fence that will separate the dogs be chain link so the dogs can see one another ? Or should we put up privacy fence ?
I think it should be privacy. My little rat terrier is going to want to get at Magi's rotty. She is fearless and I picture hours of them going at each other through the chainlink.
Magi wants the chain link. She feels it will help them get acquainted.
(Magi's dogs will never be allowed off leash with my dogs ever) Too many times things can go bad in a spit second. So which fence do we use ?????????
You guys are going to get sick of us and our questions. lol Thanks in advance. Mary
Jaybay, Thanks. I'm anxious to hear what you have to say.....after your coffee, of course. lol
MiMI's pulling problem has always been that she pulls fast and steady. She'd make a great sled dog. She doesn't stop much, or jerk around. She stays the course, but much to fast and strong for me. When I've tried the snapping back thing, she'd stop, look at me, submissively and then continue at her pace again. When I'd do the stopping thing, they would both stop,sit and look at me, wait and then again continue to pull. And Rocky.....he's just all over the place.
Well, hope to hear all your great info.
MiMI's pulling problem has always been that she pulls fast and steady. She'd make a great sled dog. She doesn't stop much, or jerk around. She stays the course, but much to fast and strong for me. When I've tried the snapping back thing, she'd stop, look at me, submissively and then continue at her pace again. When I'd do the stopping thing, they would both stop,sit and look at me, wait and then again continue to pull. And Rocky.....he's just all over the place.
Well, hope to hear all your great info.
one last thing, cant stress this enough.... with prong collars... NEVER give a correction, thats how people hurt their dogs with them.
if you're heading to the store why not bring rocky?
see up close and in person what works best. most stores (around here at least) will let you take the dog for a short walk infront of the store to see if the collars/halti work well on your pet. Also maybe just remember to check the return policy... if you dont know yet what does or does not work with your dog it could get pricy!!!
if you're heading to the store why not bring rocky?
see up close and in person what works best. most stores (around here at least) will let you take the dog for a short walk infront of the store to see if the collars/halti work well on your pet. Also maybe just remember to check the return policy... if you dont know yet what does or does not work with your dog it could get pricy!!!
OK! now that jaybay has said that, i can say this....
i have used the prong collar when i was fostering a bassett hound. most stubborn dog i have ever worked with in my life. she fully understood (not a dumb dog) the concept of how she should be walking but refused to walk normally.
she has worn out the fur on her neck from pulling so hard with a nylon collar... same thing happened under her arms with a harness, i did the same thing jaybay did and put the collar around my upper arm and pulled much harder then i would ever pull on her and it pinched, but did not break skin or hut anymore then a correction with a choke collar.
They have some that have little caps on each of the prongs if you are still concerned =P
I bought my "illusion" collar at our local specialty store, yes, very expensive, i think it retails at $45-$55 for a big dog.... i dont think it went by that name though, i think it's actually (not even close to 100% on this) i think it's HUNTER that made it. I will still check it out....
i have used the prong collar when i was fostering a bassett hound. most stubborn dog i have ever worked with in my life. she fully understood (not a dumb dog) the concept of how she should be walking but refused to walk normally.
she has worn out the fur on her neck from pulling so hard with a nylon collar... same thing happened under her arms with a harness, i did the same thing jaybay did and put the collar around my upper arm and pulled much harder then i would ever pull on her and it pinched, but did not break skin or hut anymore then a correction with a choke collar.
They have some that have little caps on each of the prongs if you are still concerned =P
I bought my "illusion" collar at our local specialty store, yes, very expensive, i think it retails at $45-$55 for a big dog.... i dont think it went by that name though, i think it's actually (not even close to 100% on this) i think it's HUNTER that made it. I will still check it out....
Roxy, Thanks, I would love to know what the name of that collar is. I'm headed to the pet store shortly but will go back if needed. I'm gonna do or get whatever is needed to make this transition a good one. I don't want any of the dogs getting hurt, including my sisters. I had a really hard time with these two during Rocky's first couple of years, because MiMi would take his collars or harness off him. I saw her do it a few times and I'd find them out in the yard somewhere, all chewed up.
MiMi , I was told, is a mix of Amstaff & Pit bull, I thought they were the same. She is slightly smaller than most Pitts I've seen and has the personality and gentle nature of a Golden Retriever. She's really quite the wuss and I question if she would actually protect me if I was attacked. LOL
MiMi , I was told, is a mix of Amstaff & Pit bull, I thought they were the same. She is slightly smaller than most Pitts I've seen and has the personality and gentle nature of a Golden Retriever. She's really quite the wuss and I question if she would actually protect me if I was attacked. LOL
roxy - that would be Cesar Millan's (the Dog Whisperer) Illusion Collar. I think you can only get it through his website. Anyway, I haven't seen them in stores here in Houston yet, but maybe he's expanded now. They can be kind of pricey compared to a plain old collar, but I really like the theory behind them. Like the gentle leader, it gives you control over the head, not just the body, saving you aching arms with a puller.
No collar can be relied upon to do the training for you. Each getup has it's pros and cons and some shouldn't be used with very long-necked dogs like dalmatians or greyhounds. We actually do use a prong collar with our Dal, and it took me a looong time before I gave in. I tried it on my bare leg first and was very surprised that it didn't hurt - and I don't even have fur!
Like any training collar, the prong collar has to be used correctly on the right dog. Unfortunately the macho young idiots who put a 50 lb chain link collar and leash on their pit bulls love the "look" of the prong collar, and naturally don't know how to use it. I admit, they look atrocious, but I've seen more damage come to a dog through improper use of the very popular choke chain collars. Both of these are supposed to be training collars with the idea that you and your dog will one day graduate to a simple buckle collar for walks. A dog who understands what a "pop-release" correction is with any other collar, will still respond to a pop-realease with a plain buckle collar - IF the handler still has confidence an psychological dominance over the dog.
OK - more to come but I need more coffee. I shall return. :-D
No collar can be relied upon to do the training for you. Each getup has it's pros and cons and some shouldn't be used with very long-necked dogs like dalmatians or greyhounds. We actually do use a prong collar with our Dal, and it took me a looong time before I gave in. I tried it on my bare leg first and was very surprised that it didn't hurt - and I don't even have fur!
Like any training collar, the prong collar has to be used correctly on the right dog. Unfortunately the macho young idiots who put a 50 lb chain link collar and leash on their pit bulls love the "look" of the prong collar, and naturally don't know how to use it. I admit, they look atrocious, but I've seen more damage come to a dog through improper use of the very popular choke chain collars. Both of these are supposed to be training collars with the idea that you and your dog will one day graduate to a simple buckle collar for walks. A dog who understands what a "pop-release" correction is with any other collar, will still respond to a pop-realease with a plain buckle collar - IF the handler still has confidence an psychological dominance over the dog.
OK - more to come but I need more coffee. I shall return. :-D
hey!
I had a heck of a time walking my dane, for quite a few weeks until i discovered a truly amazing colar. I dont remember the name of it but i will get back to you later today with it. It is a form of choke collar but it is much more effective and (i find) less harsh then a normal choke as there is almost no correction being made. (if anyone recognizes what im talking about and know the name please help me out here =) )
there is one collar that sit low on the neck almost down to the shoulders) and then on either side of the neck there are 2 rigid pieces of material that hold up another (half nylon and half chain) collar, just below the ears. the leash clips on the the collar just below the ears. Having the collar up higher like that gives you ALOT more control then when you are fighting with all their neck muscles =)
i'll be back later with the name of it for you.
gentle leaders or haltis are REALLY good too, the only problem i have had with them is sometimes dogs fight HARD to get them off, so you really need to be ready to have the patience to let him get used to it. also when choosing one pls make sure you chose one that also jas a clip (right below the halti or gentle leader) that also clips on to the collar... no matter how well they are fitted dogs WILL be able to get out of them (especially breeds with short muzzles). Also just watch that he isnt able to get it in his mouth, on nip and he will be able to cut through it.
as for who will be dominant? DONT LET SIZE FOOL YOU!!! When i bring my girls (dane and shepherd) to my parents house... (they have a standard poodle and a little 13year old 6lbs poodle cross) it's their little poodle that tells the rest of them whats what. Seeing as there are 2 dominant dogs here i would definitly take Ghilly's advice and get a cage muzzle for the rottie.
Beautiful dogs btw, is the other one an Amstaff?
I had a heck of a time walking my dane, for quite a few weeks until i discovered a truly amazing colar. I dont remember the name of it but i will get back to you later today with it. It is a form of choke collar but it is much more effective and (i find) less harsh then a normal choke as there is almost no correction being made. (if anyone recognizes what im talking about and know the name please help me out here =) )
there is one collar that sit low on the neck almost down to the shoulders) and then on either side of the neck there are 2 rigid pieces of material that hold up another (half nylon and half chain) collar, just below the ears. the leash clips on the the collar just below the ears. Having the collar up higher like that gives you ALOT more control then when you are fighting with all their neck muscles =)
i'll be back later with the name of it for you.
gentle leaders or haltis are REALLY good too, the only problem i have had with them is sometimes dogs fight HARD to get them off, so you really need to be ready to have the patience to let him get used to it. also when choosing one pls make sure you chose one that also jas a clip (right below the halti or gentle leader) that also clips on to the collar... no matter how well they are fitted dogs WILL be able to get out of them (especially breeds with short muzzles). Also just watch that he isnt able to get it in his mouth, on nip and he will be able to cut through it.
as for who will be dominant? DONT LET SIZE FOOL YOU!!! When i bring my girls (dane and shepherd) to my parents house... (they have a standard poodle and a little 13year old 6lbs poodle cross) it's their little poodle that tells the rest of them whats what. Seeing as there are 2 dominant dogs here i would definitly take Ghilly's advice and get a cage muzzle for the rottie.
Beautiful dogs btw, is the other one an Amstaff?
Thanks Gilly, I haven't tried the Gentle Leaders Halter, but I'm going to now! I really didn't like the idea of those pincher collars.
It's those "split second" confrontations that we're afraid of with the dogs. But a couple of muzzles will help ease the fears and give us a good idea if the dogs can be brought together at all.
Thanks so much.
It's those "split second" confrontations that we're afraid of with the dogs. But a couple of muzzles will help ease the fears and give us a good idea if the dogs can be brought together at all.
Thanks so much.
Have you tried the Gentle Leader head harnesses? Those work wonders when it comes to getting them to walk without pulling. They fit like little horse halters, and the principle is the same - where the head goes, the dog follows. If they do start to pull, it pulls their head around so they're facing you, and they can no longer pull forward. I HATE those prong collars, I don't care what anyone says, they are dangerous and they can hurt a dog badly. If the no-pull harnesses are not working, the Gentle Leader halters should be your next move.
As far as introducing them to the other dogs, I really hesitate to speculate on how that's going to work out. If the little dogs have dominant personalities, I see possible problems with your rottie. Especially since he is known to mix it up from time to time with your other dog, I can see his dominant personality clashing with the dominant little ones. The safest thing to do, for all concerned, is to introduce them separately while on leashes, and I would put a muzzle on the rottie for the introductions. Not anything that is going to keep him from being able to function normally, but something that will prevent him from grabbing one of the little ones if he loses his temper with them. It only takes a split second for something to happen that can't be reversed, even with everyone watching to make sure nothing happens.
Hopefully Jaybay will be here in a while and will chime in with some training advice regarding introducing all the new pack members to each other.
Ghilly
As far as introducing them to the other dogs, I really hesitate to speculate on how that's going to work out. If the little dogs have dominant personalities, I see possible problems with your rottie. Especially since he is known to mix it up from time to time with your other dog, I can see his dominant personality clashing with the dominant little ones. The safest thing to do, for all concerned, is to introduce them separately while on leashes, and I would put a muzzle on the rottie for the introductions. Not anything that is going to keep him from being able to function normally, but something that will prevent him from grabbing one of the little ones if he loses his temper with them. It only takes a split second for something to happen that can't be reversed, even with everyone watching to make sure nothing happens.
Hopefully Jaybay will be here in a while and will chime in with some training advice regarding introducing all the new pack members to each other.
Ghilly
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