we are constantly correcting her and the training hasnt stopped, every few days we start a new trick so she doesnt get board with roll over or stand up.
thankyou for your advice, i have tried the library but theres hardly and dog books lol ill google it all :)
thankyou
She didn't suddenly "snap." Your dog has been slowly figuring out her place in your pack and learned she can get away with certain behaviors because they haven't been corrected. She no longer sees you as her pack leader and is beginning to assume that role in your family. Dogs abhor a leadership vacuum, and even the most laid back dog will rise to that occasion.
Training doesn't stop at the classroom door. Throughout your dog's life there will always be new situations that require correction, so you need to learn how to correct properly and more importantly, WHEN to correct. Training is also more about training the human than the dog. You have to learn to recognize the signs of unwanted behavior before it escalates. Dogs always project their intentions with their body language. Some might be lightning fast about it, but most give an attentive person plenty of time to correct.
On the charging business, once her feet are off the ground any correction will be too late. Keep an eye on her body. The second her head, ears and/or tail go up, that's when you need to correct her and get her attention on you.
Rather than allow your dog to determine when and how she can approach another dog, you take control of the meetings. Set her up with a calm, well-behaved dog. Hopefully you have a friend or neighbor who can help you out. Put her in a sit while the dog approaches. The idea is to keep your dog's attention on you, her pack leader for further instruction. The second her ear even twitches in the direction of the newcomer, correct with a pop-release. If that doesn't work, either your correction was not timed correctly or it was too weak.
You can do the same thing with the bikes. Set her up and have someone ride by on a bicycle. Correct her as soon as her attention goes to the bike. The goal here is to get her to completely ignore it. If you can get her to relax enough to flake out on the ground while the bike goes back and forth, you're there!
Forget about sit, stay, heel and all the rest of that stuff. Yes, they're helpful commands but what you need is to learn about dog psychology. Not all trainers focus on that aspect of training, and it's actually more important than those basic obedience commands. It's very worthwhile to hire a veterinary behaviorist and get some hands-on help. Now is the time to do it before she escalates into even more dominant behavior.
My walks with my two dogs used to mean me getting dragged down the street wherever they wanted to go. Attitude is everything where dogs are concerned. I gathered up my ego, put on my "Great Wazoo" hat and started over. The dogs had to wait at the door until I went out first, and only come through when invited to do so. THAT is the beginning of the Walk. You establish yourself as the head honcho right out of the gate. They also have to be calm. Don't encourage excitement over the walk. It's like having a child with ADHD and they really can't pay attention to what you want them to do if the excitement level is high.
That first outing with my new attitude was like a miracle. I couldn't believe the difference. My dogs always loved to charge squirrells, which would leave me dangling at the end of the leash while they bounded up in someone's yard. No more. The second I see a snout or an ear turn to a squirrell (or anything else I want them to ignore) they get corrected. No more charging. Nowadays I usually don't have to bother with a leash correction. A calm, "leave it" diffuses the situation and we continue on our way.
If you absolutely can't afford a behaviorist, check out some books on dog psychology at your local library. All you need are some tools to help you understand what's going on in your dog's head so you know when and how to regain her attention.