Yep pipe is the heaviest of waves! I have not surfed there in a few winters. Back in 1989 that wave almost killed me, was lucky and only broke by back`-` believe it or not I went right back as soon as I was strong enough. Since aging I don't heal as fast, and am more careful.
Know what you mean. I used to think I was imortal on skis, unable to resist the adrenaline rush. Now a good bowel movement really gets me excited. Oh to be young again!